Garment construction



April 1960 s. J. LATKER 2,932,035

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Sept. 19, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet l STANLEY JInnavizier/24y April 12, 1960 s. J. LATKER 2,932,035

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Sept. 19, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 y j INVENTOR.

waiter/2y from its normal position at the waistline.

2,932,035 V GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Stanley 5. Latkenfllhos Angeles, Calif.Application September 19, 1958, Serial No. 762,636

' 4 Claims. (or. 2-106) The present invention is a construction whichnot only satisfactorily permits the arms to be raised above the StatesPatent 9 Fig. 9 is a side elevational view of one of the front portionsof the garment shown in Fig. 8; and

head without moving the waistband portion of the upper garment from thewaistline, but also provides for free body movements without disturbingthe 'lower portion of the garment. These results have been achieved byproviding extra length to the garment by creating a-pleat or tuck abovethe waistline, the pleat or tuck providing a contoured band around the,waistline. By the use of darts to provide contouring and to remove extramaterial of the blouse or shirt at the proper points, the garmentreturns to its original attractive appearance after the arms are loweredandthe upper portion of the body returns to its normal position.

The principal object of the invention, therefore, is to provide an uppergarment construction which is attractive Fig. 1 is a front perspectiveview of a ladys garment,

such as a blouse, embodying the invention;

i Fig. 2 is a side-elevational view of the garment of Fig. 1 showing itin expanded position;

Fig. 3 is a back view of a back portion of the blouse showing one stepin the construction of the garment;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 showing a succeeding step in theconstruction of the garment. Fig. 4a is a detailed view showing theformation of one of the dartsused in the construction of the blouse;

Fig. 5 is a side elevational view of the back portion of the garmentshown in Figs. 3 and 4;

Fig. 6 is a detailed cross-sectional view showing the lower pleat orfold of the garment and taken along thev line 66 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a front view'of front portions of the garment similar tov Fig.3 showing another step in the construction of the garment;

Fig. 8 is a view showing the portions of Fig. 7 after the darts havebeen sewed;

4o and permits arm and body movements without changing structed in thesame manner without a waistband.

Fig. 10 is a detailed cross-sectional view showing the lower pleat orfold and taken along the line 1010-of Fig. 9.

' Referring, now, to the drawings in which the same shaped, while theother darts 10 have substantially lower parallel portions together withupper pointed portions. The diamond-shaped darts are to give the contourefiect, while the intermediate darts are to take out the excess materialto properly fit the upper edges of the waistband 6.. Along thelongitudinal axes of the darts shown by the center phantom lines 12, thedarts are folded and then sewn along the outer solid lines .as shown inFig. 4a. The central portion of the darts is then folded over as isshown in the side elevational view in Fig. 5.

After the center sections 12 have been pressed against the body of theportion 5, the upper edge of the waistband 6 is sewn to the lower edge14 of the section 5, as shown at 15. The lower portion of the section 5is now folded at a position indicated by the phantom line 17, to form aslight loop as shown in- Fig. 6.

Referring, now, to Figs. 7 to 10, inclusive, two front sections of thegarment are shown at 20 and 21, these sections having similar darts 22and 23, respectively, and large bust darts 25 and 26 used in ladiesgarmenrs. These garments are also provided with respective waistbands 28and 29. The darts 22, 23, 25, and 26 are folded along their longitudinalaxes as shown by phanitom lines 27 and 28, and then sewn along the solidlines of the darts as described above for Fig. 3. Fig. 8 shows thesections 20 and 22 after the darts have been sewed, and a sideelevational view of the sewed, section 20 is shown in Fig.9. Similar toFigs. 3, 4, and 5, the sections 20 and 211 are sewn along their loweredges to the respective waistbands 28 and 29. The body portion is nowfolded along the phantom lines 31 and 32' as shown in Fig. 8, Fig. 10showing the finished efiect, while the completed garment is shown inFigs. 1 and 2.

Although the invention has been illustrated as a ladys blouse, a mansshirt or similar garment may be con- It is understood, 'of course, thatthe sections 5, 20, and 21 are sewed together in the usual manner tocomplete the blouse.

To illustrate a specific garment, the back section is measured from thecervical or back neck point 33 (see i Fig. l) to the natural waistline34. For exampleg'if this measurement is 16 inches, we deductapproximately 1 /2 inches, which is usually the width of' the waistbandof a trouser or skirt. Because a trouser or skirtband is constructed togo above the natural waistline, the blouse should be approximately 1%inches shorter so that this band will show and not be covered by theblouse. This means the back length of the blouse to the folded edgeswill be 14 /2 inches.

By the abovedescribed construction, the fold line 17 forms a contour asit encircles the body and runs parallel with the contoured waistline,which is accomplished by the darts described above. The darts are usedwith any style of garment. Now, from the 14%. inch point, there must be.added a sufficient length of cloth where it turns upward so that it canmeet and be sewed to the upper edge of the band 6 as shown in Fig. 3.

or 1% inches from the waistline, then approximately If "the bands 6,28,and 2 9 are approximately 3 inches wide, v and the blouse where it turnsupward is 14 /2 inches,

amount needed to fully raise the arms, and more than,

ample for bending the body in any direction. Ifmore or less room isneeded, larger or smaller pleats can be used. Also by using some type ofstiffening cloth in the waistband, enough body is obtained to hold thewaistband or the blouse upright permanently in'its contour and also holdtheblouse 1 inches above the waistline. Furthermore, elastic could beused in the band, although it is preferred to make'the entire garment ofthe same material so that all of the cloth in the garment will react thesame during washing or cleaning.

The above described blouse or shirt construction not only permits armraisins and body bending movements but will return the garment to itsoriginal attractive ap-- pearance after being expanded by the bodymovements.

1 claim: i

l. A garment comprising a plurality of sections having upper and lowerparts, .said lower parts being contoured by sewn darts, said dartshaving long longitudinal dimensions and varying transverse dimensions,and waistbands to which the lower edges of said lower parts are sewn,said lower parts of said sections being flat-folded over the adjacentportions of said waistbands along a line connecting the widesttransverse dimensions of said darts before said darts are sewn.

2. A garment in accordance with claim 1 in which said darts aresubstantially triangular and extend from the lower edges of said'lowerparts.

3. A garment comprising a plurality of sections adapted to be sewntogether, a plurality of darts in each of said sections, said dartshaving longlongitudinal dimensions and varying transverse dimensions,some of said darts being substantially diamondshaped to contour saidsections, the lower portions of other of said darts varying in width totake out excess material in said sections, said darts being sewn axiallyalong the boundaries of their transverse dimensions, and waistbands towhich the lower edges of said sections are sewn, the lower parts of saidplurality of sections being flat-folded over the adjacent portions ofsaid waistbands along a line connectingthe widest of said transversedimensions of said darts before said darts are sewn.

4. A garment comprising a plurality of sections adapted to be sewntogether, a plurality of darts in each of said sections, said dartsbeing tapered over portions thereof and extending to the lower edges ofsaid sections and having'a longitudinal dimension and varying transversedimensions, said darts being sewn axially along the boundaries of theirtransverse dimensions, and waistbands to which the lower edges of saidsections are sewn, the lower parts of said plurality of sections beingfolded over the adjacent portions of said waistbands along a lineconnecting the widest of said transverse dimensions of said darts, theboundaries of certain of said darts being diamond-shaped, and theboundaries of certain other of said darts being in part substantiallyparallel.

References Cited in the file of. this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS669,770 Steppacher et al. Mar. 12, 1901 686,400 Gluck Nov. 12, 19011,085,039 Handelsman Jan. 20, 1914 1,289,009 Schultz Dec. 24, 19181,331,799 Borgenicht Feb. 24, 1920 2 ,388,926 Mirsky Nov. 13, 19452,418,176 Hillman Apr. 1, 1947 FOREIGN PATENTS I 63,335 Norway June 1,1942 1,027,631 France Feb, 18, 1953

